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Melting wax: Pots with a handle and a recess for pouring are particularly suitable for heating the beeswax. Double-walled pots that are filled with water are also ideal: e.g. wax pouring pot made of aluminum or wax pouring pot made of stainless steel. This gently heats the wax until it is liquid. The temperature should be between 72°C and 75°C. Higher temperatures can lead to the formation of bubbles after the pouring process and deformation of the candles when they cool down. The most beautiful candles are obtained with pure or clarified beeswax.
Pouring the wax: The liquid beeswax should be poured slowly and in one go into the mold until the top edge is reached. It is only possible to pour more wax a few seconds later without different layers of wax becoming visible. To avoid cracks in the wax, the wax should cool at room temperature. Depending on the size and shape of the candle, this process can take several hours. Complete hardening is particularly important for candles with fine decorations.
Rework the wicks: After the wax has hardened, the wick is cut off flush on the underside and shortened to a length of approx. 1 cm on the top. So that the wick does not fray and burns better when lit, the tip can also be dipped in wax.
The size of the wick depends on the size and shape of the candle on the one hand and on the type and purity of the wax on the other. A thin candle should always have a thin wick, otherwise the candle will burn out too quickly or produce a lot of soot. A thick candle, on the other hand, needs a thick wick so that the larger flame burns evenly. Otherwise, only the wax in the middle will burn off, while the edges will remain and the flame will die out after a while.
Before making a large quantity of candles, the right wick should be determined using a burning test.
We recommend the following guide values when using pure beeswax:
Poured candles in general
Candle diameter in cm
Wick thickness
0,1 - 0,4
No. 0
0,5 - 1,4
No. 1
1,5 - 2,4
No. 2
2,5 - 3,4
No. 3
3,5 - 4,4
No. 4
4,5 - 5,4
No. 5
5,5 - 6,4
No. 6
6,5 - 7,4
No. 7
7,5 - 8,4
No. 8
8,5 - 9,4
No. 9
9,5 - 10,4
No. 10
10,5 - 13,4
No. 12
13,5 - 15,4
No. 14
15,5 - 17,4
No. 16
18,5 - 19,4
No. 18
from 20.5
No. 20
Twisted candles made from 57 cm long candle plates
Number of candle plates
1
2
3
Table candle diameter in cm
2 - 3
Candle molds should be cleaned of wax residues after use and if there are any defects on the candle surface. In the case of new or already used molds, the release and silicone oils used in production can also leave an oily film on the mold, which should be removed.
To clean the mold, it should first be rinsed with warm water and a little washing-up liquid. The outside can be cleaned with a damp cloth, the inside of the silicone can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush. After rinsing with water, the mold can be dried either with a lint-free cloth or in the air.
Before using the core mold, it must be completely dry inside. Drops of water will lead to imperfections on the cast candle.
Candle molds should always be stored in such a way that they cannot become deformed. We recommend storing the molds on a flat surface and not stacking them on top of each other. Flat casting molds should be stored lying down as a whole, while round molds should be stored upright. An exception to this are the long table candle molds, which can be carefully stored lying down. To prevent the mold from becoming dusty, it can be wrapped in cling film. To completely prevent deformation, the last candle wax poured can remain in the mold during the storage period.
The mold should be stored in a cool and dry place.
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